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Tiffany lamps are an amazing a work of art. They are a classic, definitely timeless. They have withstood the test of time. You can always be sure of the quality of the product. It’s not only the quality but also the elegance that one is looking for. Tiffany lamps for the home undoubtedly defines the world “elegant”.

Lamps can really transform the atmosphere of a certain room depending on their designs. These lamps have distinctive designs that will surely last for a long time. Their intricacies really capture one’s imagination.

There are several ways for taking care of your Tiffany lamps — it varies from the type of glass that makes-up your lamp.

If it’s opaque glass, you can clean your lamp with furniture polish made with lemon oil. Polish evenly with a clean rag. You can use glass cleaner to clean most lamps.

On the other hand, if your lamp is made with jadestone, clean the jadestone with furniture oil that is made with lemon oil. If you have a Mica Tiffany lamp, do not make the mistake of using commercial cleaners. Use a dry or slightly damp cloth instead.

If your Tiffany lamp is made of fabric it does gather dust, but you can easily clean it with a duster, just make sure you don’t dust with a heavy hand. Otherwise, you will just be pushing the dust into the fabric. If there are dust particles that still won’t come off, brush away with a clean, dry rag.

It doesn’t really matter if your Tiffany lamp is genuine or a masterful reproduction. Your Tiffany lamp will stimulate anyone who sees it and will be appreciated, so make sure you’re doing your part in cleaning your lamp.

People like to know which clothes and possessions are theirs,and in most cases this is not a problem If large numbers of people wear uniforms, or have their clothing laundered at the same time then some kind of identification is needed. There are several types of name labels and we compare all of them as follows:

Name sticker Appearance:
The most attractive labels are printed fabric or woven labels which need to be sewn into uniforms, second place is shared by iron on labels and stikins and last place has to go to laundry markers and biro where the name is written into the garment.

Speed of Name Label Application
The speediestway of labelingclothing is a laundry pen followed by stikins and then iron on labelling. Sewing in labels comes last in terms of speed particularly if one is a non sewer, or have many children.

Name Label Durability:
Washing machines are designed to remove things from garments, and have harsh environment for labels. Labels can fail because they come off or because the print fades. A well sewn in woven name label is the most durable solution and it should survive the life of the garment. Mixed results come from iron on labels in terms of staying in; some are very good and some are poor, the kind of fabric they are ironed on to is also a factor, but they tend not to fade. Stikins name labels generally survive extremely well if put on correctly and the print does not fade. Laundry markers do tend to fade with time but there is no issue regarding falling off.

Name Label Cost:
Laundry markers are the lowest cost and there are also some low priced label sew in tapes. Woven and embroidered name labels have a range of prices and are often more expensive than iron in labels and stikins. The most expensive name labels are the ones that fail, or need replacing often so buying cheap may not be good value in the end.

Which Name Label Is Best?
None of the labels in this comparison is an overall winner, all have pros and cons and the best labels for you will depend what is most important to you. If appearance overrides everything go for the best woven labels, if cost is vital buy a marker pen, if you want a good all round performer buy Stikins. A referral from a friend or samples first is a good way of making sure of the quality of iron on labels, which can also be good all rounders. So good luck choosing stikins labels for your clothes.

Our bed sheets really are an important part of the overall bedding items used on a bed, and without any question of doubt, the higher the quality bed sheets used, the happier you will be when you’re tucked in for the night. So many of us focus on the covers, and pillows, but the fabric we lay on also plays a big role in providing us with a good quality sleep.

What the thread count determines is the comfort of the fabric. A good rule of thumb is that the higher the thread count number, the softer the sheets will be. How many of us at some time or another have slept on scratchy sheets or those that are so thin you can almost see through them. We spend a long time asleep during out lifetime so it’s really important to make our sleeping experience as pleasant as possible. That is what bed sheets are like.

Bed sheets are available in two types: flat and fitted. A flat bed sheet is nothing more than a rectangular-shaped piece of linen. A fitted bed sheet features four corners with elastic bands around the edges and is used as a bottom sheet. A reason for using a fitted bottom sheet is to prevent it from slipping off of the mattress while the sleeper moves around on the bed. A unique method of folding and tucking while making up a bed is referred to as “hospital corners,” and this is typically employed when the bottom sheet is flat as opposed to fitted.

There’s no rocket science involved in washing bed sheets but there is one important tip that you may want to consider so as to keep your bed linen in tip top condition. After the wash cycle is complete, run the sheets through an extra rinse cycle to remove any soap residue since this decreases their softness.

The type of fabric that you select when buying your sheets will make a huge impact on your comfort level. And with so many materials available, you should think hard about what type of sleeping experience you desire. The most popular choices are cotton, flannel, and silks and satins. This is what flannel sheets are like. Finally, a silk or satin pair of sheets is considered the ultimate in luxury. They are silky soft and will keep you from sweating in the summer. You can literally slide into bed and if you have a satin or silk pillow case, lay your head in pure luxury. The only downside to satin and silk sheets is that they tend to slide off of the bed if not fitted properly.

Fashion Sense is timeless. Although written in 1925 it is amazing how the 1920’s fashion concepts discussed in this article are just as applicable today.  The patterns referred to in this article are 1920’s patterns that you can sometimes pick up on eBay.

So then, let us think for a while about dresses for a whole day—simple ones, for they are smartest, and stylish ones, for we must admit the importance of style.

A dress that the schoolgirl can wear to her classes, the business girl to her office, or the home woman to market or for sports or motoring is popular at present. Every item about it is stylish—the epaulet shoulder, the closely fitting long sleeves, the little turn-over shirt collar, the inverted back plait, and the misleading tuck in front that gives it the effect of being a two-piece dress, than which there is no more popular style at the moment. Of course, it is essentially youthful, and so must not be worn by one whose figure is definitely mature.

The materials that are suitable for this dress make quite a fascinating array. Balbriggan, a very light-weight, fine quality of wool jersey, is a typical fabric for the model. It comes in plain solid colors and in silver-flecked heather mixtures, all very lovely. Among the popular and youthful fabrics is velveteen in gay sports colors. The light-weight tweed, called pheasant’s eye, is another new and appropriate material.

As for the pattern, you will probably be unable to duplicate it exactly. But if you purchase a plain foundation pattern with epaulet shoulders, such as McCall 4182, you will be able to make the necessary changes. Simply lay an inverted plait in the material where the center back of the pattern comes, before cutting the back. In the front, lay a horizontal tuck, 2 1/2 inches wide, low on the hips, and cut as usual.

In making the dress, first stitch the back plait and the front tuck. Then gather the shoulder fulness in front, and sew both the front and the back to the sleeves. Finally, fold the dress for stitching the under-arm seams, keeping the ends of the shoulder seams together. Stitch the dress and sleeve under-arm seams in one, as for a kimono sleeve. Face or bind the front opening, hem the skirt, apply collar and cuffs, and the dress is complete.

Much is said at present about lines that run down in front and up in the back, or vice versa, over the hips. These bear no relation to the waist line, which is frequently missing, and are used in conjunction with the molded lines that follow, quite subtly, the natural lines of the figure.

A dress of the afternoon type should feature these points and possesses, in addition, a popular detail in its tiered skirt. Crepe-back satin, supple and lustrous, is the ideal material for such a dress, though crepe faille, flat crepe, or the sheer crepes of the Elizabeth and Roma order are quite acceptable.

Here again you may use a plain foundation pattern, one with set – in sleeves this time, such as Pictorial Review 2850. Fit the underarm seams in nicely so that the dress molds the figure very slightly. The tiers are perfectly straight pieces of the material, cut so that the lengthwise grain goes across the body. It is wise to cut these from muslin first, as expensive material may frequently be saved in this way. Cut them 8 or 10 inches wide, and determine the length by measuring over the hips, following the line shown. Allow about 8 inches additional length for shaping at the front,

Finish the ends and lower edges of the tiers with narrow self-fabric bias bindings. Locate them so that they overlap slightly and so that the amount of the skirt that shows below them at the center back equals them in width.

Detailed instructions to make a 1920’s dress can be found in the One Hour Dress, a booklet by Mary Brooks Picken.

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